You have not shared a picture of the box so we don't know whether this is worth discussing. A chart showing amperage ratings of different wires. You might be able to reuse the wiring whip from the old stove. VS for the 14-50 approach you only need to buy a 14-50 cord and 14-50 receptacle. The disadvantage is that you have a lot of fiddly bits you need to find yourself - the wire, FMC, fittings, etc. Potential advantage of hardwiring is that it can avoid replacing the junction box behind the stove. This requires adding a breaker lockout (I'm not sure how many DIYers actually comply with that). I believe you can use as small as 1/2" FMC). The advantage of installing a 14-50 now is that it will make replacing the stove in 10 years easier.Īnother option: the instructions for that stove say you can use conduit to hardwire (FMC with 3 #8 for L1/L2/N and 1 #10 for ground would be what you want. You might find it if you shopped at a proper electrical supply house, but youd get funny looks and an 'are you sure'. You can also use 6 AWG Aluminum, but you wont find it. As a general rule all full size electric stoves or ranges require a minimum of a 40 amp power feed with a 50 amp receptacle 120/240 volts. Type BR breakers are UL approved genuine replacement breakers for load centers made by Westinghouse, Challenger and Bryant. This will be individual wires, not a cable in a sheath. Trips to center position - must turn off then turn back on. 40A 14-50 whips are recommended by your manual. Since the entire route is conduit, you need 8 AWG THWN-2 copper. If you want to go this route you have to change the breaker which feels like too much work.ġ4-50 receptacle is allowed on a 40A circuit. So don't do that even though the stove is 30A. 40A breaker you have now is smaller than 50A allowedĪ separate section of code says you can't put 30A receptacle on a 40A circuit. The code section I quoted says you can use up to a 50A circuit breaker (round up from 45A from the calculation) to protect that device.
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